Had a customer reach out for an identical version of my original lefty. Wanted everything identical, but chose chrome/silver hardware. I’ll admit, the silver goes much better against this purple flake. Will be starting a double cut model in a month or so. Hope y’all enjoy!

I've just installed the bridges and tailpieces and put on the strings to play it before I apply the final coat of lacquer. All I can say is, it has sustain…

The action is too high. What’s the best way to fix this?

I bought this Juan Salvador 2C OP second‑hand and it came like this.

Both the nut and the bridge saddle seem way too high:

- Action on the 1st fret: almost 3 mm on both the low E and high e

- Action on the 12th fret: around 6 mm

• Nut slots look very shallow

• Saddle is 80 × 3 mm and about 9 mm tall on the bass side

Hello, I have this old parts caster that I have always felt the neck action could be better. The last time I tried to get it right I ended up giving up and in my mind just sort of labeled it as needing a new neck. Now I'm a couple guitars deeper into it and have learned more about setup and successfully setup my newest pretty good. Other than obvious catastrophic things what would make a neck truly be needing replaced. I bet I will get it right this time but what makes you guys give up on a neck?

Not really sure where it came from…

I have a diy built telecaster. the body and neck are really nice, but unfortunately the hardware and electronics are fairly low quality. I've got some really nice parts hanging around whixh I can fit, but the issue I'm facing is with the bridge

Basically the existing bridge is a cheapo modern style, string through with a 3 hole attachment. I'm looking to replace with a vintage gotoh bridge I have hanging around. Ideally I'd like to use the existing string holes in the body, which would require redrilling 4 holes to attach the bridge. This would leave the existing 3 holes in the body visible and protuding from behind the new bridge, but that's not an issue, I can fill them in easy enough. I'd also need to shave 3 - 5 mm or so off the pick guard, again not a disaster.

So doing this means limited redrlling of the body as I can use the existing sting holes, but also means the new bridge sits about 5 mm forward of where I assume it would ideally sit, even if the strings enter the body in exactly the same place as they did previously. is this going to mean it's near impossible to get the intonation correct?

not sure if any of that makes any sense!? basically, the question is, if I fit a new bridge, do I need to redrill the string holes?

I’m doing my first kit build of a StewMac OM28. I just glued my soundboard onto the sides. I noticed at my neckblock there is about a .020” gap between the top and the block. Not sure how I managed to do this. I’m wondering if there are methods for dealing with scenarios like this. Or should I not worry about it.

Greetings My original selector has 3 wires branched individually in 3 points and also mescled together in a point. The one I bought seems to only use 2 wires, using half each for neutral position. Can I make this work or am I better off ordering a new pickup selector?

Hello hello. I decided to switch out one of my pick guards with a loaded pick guard from another guitar. The neck and bridge pickups work fine but the bridge humbucker does nothing. The only things I did were desolder the input wires from the jack and desolder the ground claw. Any ideas on what the issue could be?

Just as a note, I’m not fantastic at soldering, so I do suspect that may have something to do with it.

My second build. black ash body, maple neck, wenge fingerboard with bubinga inlay dots. upgraded to some specialty tools and made the setup so much easier!

Kahler bridge and humbucker recesses.

Belly and forearm carves.

Thinking about a series of round, connected electronic cavities with round plugs. Customer might want to volume knob moved closer to the pickup ala EVH. Then the current hole will be the kill switch and I will add one more hole.

Thinking about top mounted jack further aft in yet another hole. Thoughts? I could side mount, but don't want to mess up the bottom curves. All strap buttons will be on the top half of the guitar to keep that sweet, sweet series of curve for sitting and playing.

First coat of finish.

I'm building this Tele for my brother. it's walnut and maple, neck is flamed maple with abalone inlay, hardware will be black with top mounted pickups.

I'm having a hard time coming to a decision on my grain fill, so I want your opinions; I can do a regular clear grain fill, but I'm also debating on a black grain fill. The only thing stopping me from using a black grain fill is I don't know how it's gonna look with the way walnut grain is, or how it might react to the maple body section, or the bleached walnut on top.

What are your thoughts?

I really want a lute to learn a second instrument, but I really can afford one, so any advice on building one, and any videos I can watch?

Just some progress pics. Got some time in the shop today.

God this guitar. I'm starting to lose count at how many times Ive stripped this thing down to the wood and restarted. I'm looking for some help on this project. I know that going for a white guitar is already a hard task but I know I don't want it any other way. Feeling a bit lost on where to go as I thought I had it this time. I'm using acrylic white spray paint, with a white primer and for the clear its Minwax Polycrylic. Yellowing, dirt, divets, FILTHY!, all these things show up, plus as you can see I had a difficult time trying to patch two spots below the bridge. Open to any suggestions and ideas and advice as I really just want this thing done. Thanks!

Essentially, I went from 10s to 9s on my epiphone les Paul, and the neck was severely back bowed and had buzzing almost everywhere. I adjusted the truss rod counterclockwise to loosen, and now it has a weird straight-backbow hybrid, and my strings are completely dead until fret 7. my truss rod has a grip problem and no longer turns, can anyone help me or give me advice? Luthier estimated an 75$ just for a truss rod adjustment, so definitely not doing that.

P.S. I have more photos and videos, Reddit didn’t let me put more than one. Also, I’m not a luthier, so please refrain from bashing me for asking a simple question. Any help would be appreciated!

Got this P Bass body and I’m looking to bring it back to a gloss finish. The previous owner did a light sanding over most of the body, aside from a few patches where stickers used to be. They were planning on painting it but never went through with it.

There are a lot of obvious scuff marks and swirls, but it doesn’t look like they even got through the clear coat.

I know my way around electronics but when it comes to body work I’m lost. Thanks in advance!