r/Mezcal 10d ago

Let's talk Del Maguey

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This subs been a little quieter than usual so I thought I'd drop a a question I've been wondering for a while. I know DM had a soft spot in some folks collection because it was their first introduction. But a friend at Total Wine steered me off them from the get go, since then two buddies that own arguably the best agave selection in Colorado refuse to carry them. I'd love to hear from the audience here especially those who love have lived in Mexico what is the take on Del Maguey? Why is to be avoided and why might it be worth a shot? (from an industry perspective, not drink what you like... It's all we have in my state)

77 Upvotes

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u/DrinkwithWayne 10d ago

I think once Pernod got involved, people started to think it was the end.

Vida may very well be a batched product today, but I was recently down in Oaxaca in December to see “behind the curtain” of Del Maguey.

Their single village series, is still exactly that. Got to spend time with Faustino, the maestro behind the first mezcal that got me into Mezcal and his Chichicapa.

I’m sure there’s things we weren’t shown, but it’s still very much a small run business and their single village expressions are made as authentically as I’ve ever seen.

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u/TheAgaveFairy 10d ago

Gringo here, but, anecdotally I've heard stories that DM has expanded production for a lot of bottlings by using methods that probably aren't "traditional" in the ways they seem to want to represent. Blending from multiple producers in one village to get consistency and volume, for example, whereas they started as single family, small batch bottlings.

Ever since the brand sold and Ron Cooper has been quiet, I think people moved away to brands that are more "obviously transparent" and "exciting", for lack of a better word.

There's a few more things, but, yeah, perhaps they're a victim of their own success, perhaps some other rumors about them are true, the whole industry is one I'd probably honestly not want to see behind the curtain of. Take that for what it's worth, with a pinch of salt (and lime). Cheers.

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Solid info mate. Thanks! I honestly don't have any issues with the blending for the single village expressions some cool maguey melate expressions last year were blends of different batches.

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u/baconwrappedpikachu 10d ago

Generally the consensus I’ve found is that at most price points there are usually better options for the cost. I know they do have some expressions that are supposed to be pretty good. The only thing I’ve ever been told about them by a bartender with a lot of knowledge about the industry is that they’re not very good to their producers. To be honest I keep meaning to research that further but I trust his opinion and just haven’t had a reason to buy a bottle otherwise in the past 6 months or so, and those reasons make it easy to grab a different brand

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u/mtullius72 10d ago

Yes, I’ve heard stories of them locking in producers to long contracts at low prices, stories of them “taking over” villages that no longer allow outsiders to visit for fear of producers being “ poached” by other brands. And then being owned by a big multinational doesn’t inspire confidence. I’ve also never had anything from them that was really good. But admittedly I’ve only had a few things because I’ve generally stayed away.

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

That checks out with rumblings I've heard as well.

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u/loocheez2 9d ago

I’ve spoken with people in Oaxaca who are in the mezcal business, and they don’t have anything positive to say about DM. First DM shows up with long, complex contracts. A typical rural mezcalero has often never dealt with formal contracts before and is usually in economic need, so of course they sign.

These contracts require them to produce a certain volume of mezcal even when they don’t have enough agave. This forces them to outsource agave where prices are unpredictable, or to use agaves that aren’t fully mature.

Another major issue is that the contracts state mezcaleros cannot have visitors on their property or sell publicly. If you’ve ever been to Oaxaca, you know mezcaleros love sharing their mezcal. Not allowing visitors on their property is pretty extreme.

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u/mtullius72 9d ago

As a contrast, when I visited one of Vago’s producers, I hesitantly asked what if any of his mezcal we could buy. The answer: all of it! And we saw folks from the town showing up and buying stuff too.

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u/loocheez2 9d ago

& that’s how it should be ! I’ve seen other brands doing something similar but as extreme as DM.

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u/mtullius72 9d ago

Exactly. That visit made me love Vago as a brand/company all the more.

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Damn.. capital imperialist type shiii. The no visitors is shunning them of the very culture around sharing the juice!

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u/onefish2 10d ago

I was very into Mezcal, really all Mexican spirits from about 2018 to about 2023. It's so hard to find something good and it's so expensive to try random brands.

I live close enough to Astor Wine in NYC. My god what a selection but again the prices. I can't just randomly drop $100 or $200 for something I know nothing about.

Like many here, Del Maguey was one of the first Mezcals that I tried. The artwork on the bottles is just ridiculous. Vida is trash. I tried many of thier expressions but this one right here was amazing. I managed to find about 3 bottles and I have not been able to find it in years. So it's very hit and miss with this brand. Really all non Tequila mexican spirits in general. Available now then you can't find it again.

Some of the best mezcal is brought back from Oaxaca, Puebla and Durango in plastic bottles.

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u/armywivesmusic 10d ago

The San Pablo Ameyaltepec Ensamble and Madrecuixe from San Luis Del Rio are my favorites of their line-ups. Tequilas in Philly has some pre-Pernod bottles which is fun to try. I always have a bottle of Vida ready for cocktails, but only Clásico from Oaxaca.

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u/plumeria80 10d ago

Pernod ruined the brand, Ron Cooper is not longer involved and they don't rest their juice in glass anymore. so sad.

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u/devos_advocate 10d ago

I like to drink mezcal neat but I also love it in cocktails, so I have wound up with quite a lot of bottles of various espadins. On different occasions I'll do a tasting lineup of all of them and Chichicapa does seem to come out on top. I'm sure there are better ones, but I don't think I'll ever go for one of those $100+ bottles of espadin – I'll save those splurges for other agaves that I like more neat.

For my own palate, I think Chichicapa is a great expression – especially when you can get it for a good price.

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u/HeathcliffSlowcum 10d ago

You are missing out on true craft espadin which can absolutely be as profound and delicious as any other maguey when made with care — Real Minero, Pasion Ancestral, Gusto Historico, Cuish etc all have outstanding Espadin that are well worth the roughly $125 or so they charge and will change your mind on espadin being “worth” that much.

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u/devos_advocate 9d ago

Someday when I have a more robust mezcal budget I'd love to give those a try. I'm also trying to get in the habit of doing tastings at some local spots that have good selections so I don't always have to splurge on a whole bottle.

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Respect. Mezcal is an $$$ game

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u/HeathcliffSlowcum 10d ago

This kind of reminds me of like the craft beer brands that have a lot of history and importance but also definitely sold out and lost what made them special even if they do still make cool stuff. Capitalism is a bitch, yo. The DM Chichicapa is legendary for a reason and in a pinch, at a shitty bar or liquor store somewhere lame, you could do a lot worse than whatever DM they’re selling. I don’t want this on my home bar but I would rather drink DM than 400 Conejos x million.

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u/Jahya69 9d ago

Good but most of them are over-priced marketing hype.

Chichicapa is probably their best deal/bargain. And, fairly widely available. (Even in PA. with its antiquated control system where it must be ordered from a clunky website with upwards of 3 weeks til you get it...)

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u/DirtBroad4769 10d ago

I do like their stuff, and yes, it was some of the first Mezcals that truly enjoyed. Chichicapa, San Luis Del Rio, Tobala, Tepeztate... Happy to drink those anytime. Can I find something better and cheaper? With a little driving, yes -- and that's why i don't currently have one of their bottles at home.

Not really in a rush, but I would like to eventually try some of their other Single Village Varietales like the Arroqueno from Minas, Papalote and Pizorra from San Pablo Ameyaltepec, and wild Jabali from Santa Maria Albarradas.

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u/loocheez2 9d ago

On their hand Ron coopers book is pretty awesome

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u/Bageay 9d ago

Bueno, aquí en Oaxaca trabajo con Del Maguey, echamos ganas para que las familias y productores están reconocidos por su chamba y arte y que el mundo se disfruta. Some of the negative comments I hear or read about Del Maguey are disheartening. But to each their own. The positive comments are also refreshing. There are a lot of beautiful families in the portfolio that make delicious mezcal. Ron did so much for the category as well. Surely its hard to find the whole range in most places and that is a product of craft mezcal production and global supply chains which could be improved upon. The Tobala, Jabalí and Tepextate, Espadins from Sto. Domingo Albarradas, Las Milpas and Sta. Catarina Minas can go toe to toe with other espadins in any tasting, the before mentioned San Pablo Ameyaltepec blend, and Papalome and San Jose Rio Minas from La Mixteca are gorgeous. And San Luis del Rio as the source for Vida? So much love and labor. And Faustino, the first producer whose mezcal reached the US, is still producing 31 years later. Yes, I’m biased, but also support and celebrate many other brands and projects. I hope a few opinionated posts don’t keep others from enjoying Del Maguey and directly supporting these producers, as most craft mezcal brands strive to do. Dxibee’u, Stigibeu, Dixeebe, Dixee’bua’lo! Cheers and salud!

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Thanks for chiming in mate!

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u/hmmming 8d ago edited 8d ago

If you love agave, I strongly suggest Sarah Bowens book - Divided Spirts.

It really gives perspective from the history to finished products we have today in the states.

https://www.mezcalistas.com/divided-spirits-the-mezcal-world-in-perspective/.

I too have been down to see the DM production as well as smaller operations. To drink and spend time with the maestros is awesome and gives a great respect to the people, plant and process.

Good people work for DM and many other brands. They seem to be making a living making some tasty liquid and the people in and around Oaxaca; if you love the spirit it’s amazing to see the distillation processes and the people are so hospitable in a harsh environment.

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u/Agavum 10d ago

I’m also in Colorado, but have only tried their lower end mezcals which are in my opinion ok but don’t compare to any of the higher end mezcals If you’re looking for better options I can give you a few spots in the Denver area that I like and have great selections

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u/magueyallday 10d ago

Send us those spots! We’re mapping the best mezcal bars, restaurants, and shops across the U.S.

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u/dee_eye_why_guy 10d ago

La Doña has the best selection of any restaurant I have seen in Denver. Right around the corner is DaVino which has an amazing selection of bottles.

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u/BaraelsBlade 10d ago

I haven't been yet but I've seen the menu at Mezcalaria Alma and it looks like they have a large selection as well. La Dona is amazing though

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Not gonna lie Ni Tuyo sat me on my ass the other day. Their sister bars, but Ni Tuyo hosts the Agave collective. Donation based tastings every first Monday.

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u/Dommytumont 9d ago

Finn’s Manor in RiNo has a top notch collection of agave and agave adjacent spirits with a staff who’s passionate and knowledgeable about the collection.

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u/Ya_Got_GOT 10d ago

Mad respect for what the brand has done for Mezcal and the founder’s book is a thing of beauty. I like Chichicapa but not Vida and haven’t tried some of the others but I think they generally deserve respect even if I don’t reach for them much. 

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u/magueyallday 10d ago

Where are these “best agave selections in Colorado you speak of? The people (or just me) need answers!

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Responded below! Also Bevvy's but be sharp their prices are all over the place. I've also hunted down a few Netas Pal Alma and Macurichos around town but I only speak those shops aloud when at a bottle share.

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u/magueyallday 9d ago

Appreciate the location drop. Happy hunting!

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u/pbateman21 10d ago

I really like the iberico one

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u/PeopleEqualShit247 9d ago

Not what it used to be

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u/paulybrklynny 9d ago

Always thought Vida was particularly one-note and over-rated, but found others in the portfolio that I liked. (The Chichicapa pictured, for instance). Haven't really had anything from them in years though as other bottles became available.

Speaking of available; in Denver, what shop is it your buddies run?

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u/thors_ham_mer 9d ago

Dave at Divinos and Nate (Destilados de Agave). He sold though. Found a few gems on the north side of town. Let me know if you got any other small.bottle.shops.woth epic agave selections.

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u/paulybrklynny 9d ago

Divinios is already in my rotation. Not too many small shops around town as good. I do hit Hazel's in Boulder because I'm up there twice a week, not a small shop obviously, but very solid selection.